Help Center
New Bird Packet
Exotic Bird Hospital, Inc
11744 Beach BlvdSuite 107
Jacksonville, FL, 32246
(904) 256-0043
Basic Bird Care
The following are helpful hints to enhance the comfort and health of your bird:
• A varied diet is best. The bulk should consist of pellets with a little seed. Offer fruit and vegetables daily. Fresh is ideal but they can be canned or frozen, served at room temperature or warmer. Place in a separate dish and discard daily. What is healthy for you is generally okay for your bird. You can share your meals if you avoid salt, sugar, and excess spices. No avocado, chocolate, alcohol or caffeine. Store pellets and seed in the freezer or refrigerator.
• Grit is not necessary for most parrots.
• Change water frequently, at least daily. Do not use liquid or powder vitamins in the water. Little gets ingested and the water will become fouled easily. You cannot control the dosage with this method.
• Do not use sandpaper perches. This can irritate the feet. Use perches of various sizes. The bird’s opposing toes should not touch when grasped on a perch. Put the most comfortable perch up high for the nighttime roost.
• Do not use sawdust, sand or other medium on the cage floor where you cannot see the droppings. Newspaper, paper towels, computer paper or such works well and should be changed daily. Newspaper ink is not toxic.
• Birds have very extensive respiratory systems. Avoid smoking or using aerosols such as hair spray, deodorant, perfume, cleaning products, etc. around your bird.
• Do not use Teflon nonstick cookware, irons or ironing boards with Teflon covers around birds. The fumes, which we cannot detect, are toxic to birds.
• Be careful what your bird chews on and make sure it’s not toxic.
• Birds preen constantly. This is normal behavior and does not indicate mites. Do not use mite dust or insecticides near your bird.
• Your bird should be bathed once a week with plain water; no shampoo. It can take a shower with you or it can be misted with lukewarm water from a clean spray bottle. It can splash around in a clean shallow bowl. The bird should be completely dry by nightfall.
• Keep both wings trimmed at all times for your bird’s safety. Before taking your bird outside, test its flight ability by letting it land on a bed. This will make sure it cannot gain any height.
• Spend quality time with your bird each day. Take it out of its cage and let it interact with you, or play on a gym. Let it get some exercise.
• Provide numerous safe toys for a variety. Always watch a bird with a new toy. Make sure there are no small pieces to ingest or parts to get entangled in.
• Never leave a bird unattended out of its cage, even for a minute.
• Do not let your bird be near, or “play”, with cats, dogs, reptiles, larger aggressive birds, or children too young to understand how to handle them.
• Birds need lots of sleep; 10 hours at least. Provide this quiet time each evening.
Proper Disinfection Technique
Disinfection essentially means germ-free. Antibacterial soap may not have the power to rid a surface of all bacteria. To assume a germ-free surface a disinfectant should be used. A common household disinfectant is bleach.
To thoroughly disinfect an item, it first must be clean. Disinfection cannot take place through debris. Clean is defined as ‘free of matter and debris’. This is accomplished by washing the item to remove debris.
Disinfection may also be inhibited by the presence of soap. Therefore, the item should be rinsed thoroughly. Once rinsed, saturate the item with disinfectant. Allow the proper time for the disinfectant to work. Rinse off all the disinfectant and dry. The item is now germ-free and ready for use.
Recipe for Bleach Spray
Bleach does not have to be full strength to disinfect. One-part bleach to 10 equal parts of water is usually sufficient for disinfection. This may be mixed in a spray bottle. It should be changed weekly to insure adequate strength. Disinfection time is at least 20 minutes before rinsing.
Other Disinfectants
There are many different kinds of disinfectants available. Each will have its own mix ratio and activation time. Follow the instructions on the bottle. The mix ratio should not exceed the manufacturers’ recommendations. Residues may be left behind, permanently damaging a surface. More disinfectant to less water does not mean less activation time.
It should also be mentioned that disinfected is not the same as sterile. Sterility can only be accomplished by a combination of heat and steam at a certain temperature and pressure, as occurs in an autoclave. Since most people do not have access to an autoclave, an object cannot be deemed sterile unless it is packaged and labeled as such by a medical manufacturer.
DIAGNOSTIC TESTING FOR YOUR BIRD
Birds are generally very hardy. However, like all living creatures, they do occasionally get sick.
The major difference with birds is that their natural instincts for survival often prevent them from showing any outward signs of disease until it becomes well-advanced.
The cornerstone of your birds’ examination is a thorough history and physical exam. However, since birds will “hide” or “mask” signs of disease, we must rely on diagnostic testing to uncover problems early before they become serious, and to arrive at a correct diagnosis. This is the key to effective treatment and rapid recovery. Periodically performing some of these tests will lead to the better health and longevity of our feathered friends.
There are numerous tests available. No one test will consistently give the answers. Often it becomes necessary to run different tests to correctly piece together the puzzle. Below is a brief explanation of some of the more commonly performed diagnostic tests we may be recommending for
your bird.
• BLOOD TESTS: Since blood flows to every organ in the body, an infection or disease will frequently cause changes in the blood picture, indicating a problem. A complete blood count, or CBC, will give information about the body’s immune response. Blood serum chemistries evaluate various organs and values in the body. These are valuable routine health screens for newly acquired birds and yearly check-ups. Blood is collected from a clipped toenail, or directly from a vein. You will notice a much shorter toe nail after we take the blood sample. This will grow back normally.
• MICROBIOLOGICAL EXAMS: The following tests check for a variety of organisms NOT normally found in the body that may cause illness: Gram Stain screens for the presence and quantity of bacteria and yeast. Culture and Sensitivity grows and identifies any abnormal bacteria, yeast, or fungi and determines the drugs most effective for treatment.
• DIRECT FECAL: This is a microscopic examination of the droppings to detect parasites, bacteria, and yeast.
• PSITTACOSIS: (Chlamydiosis or “parrot fever”) This is a widespread and serious disease that can be transmitted to other birds and humans by infected birds, even though no obvious signs may be apparent. Diagnosis is most often made from a swab or blood sample… sometimes both. This test is ALWAYS recommended for newly acquired birds and may be recommended for a sick bird.
THE ABOVE TESTS ARE RECOMMENDED FOR OUR GENERAL WELL BIRD CHECK-UP.
WHEN COMBINED WITH YOUR BIRD’S HISTORY AND PHYSICAL EXAM,
THEY GIVE US A FULL PICTURE OF HIS/HER HEALTH.
DIAGNOSTIC TESTING FOR YOUR BIRD
(continued)
THESE ADDITIONAL DIAGNOSTICS PROVIDE US WITH MORE
SPECIALIZED INFORMAITON REGARDING YOUR BIRD’S HEALTH
• RADIOGRAPHS: (X-rays) The ability to “see” inside the body is invaluable for diagnosing a variety of problems and sometimes as part of a routine health screen. Changes in the shape and size of the organs, visualizing foreign bodies and bone abnormalities are some of the information gained. We routinely use an ultra-safe inhalant anesthetic to minimize stress and injury when we take radiographs.
• PSITTACINE BEAK AND FEATHER DISEASE (PBFD): A highly contagious disease-causing feather and sometimes beak abnormalities. Blood testing is used to screen for this serious disease.
• POLYOMA VIRUS: A serious disease primarily affecting young birds. Adults can have latent infections and spread the disease to susceptible birds. Symptoms are variable. Tests are run on blood and swabs to screen for this. A vaccine is now available to prevent infection.
• ASPERGILLOSIS: A blood test or culture can be used to detect this fungal disease. It affects the lower respiratory tract. Signs include: rapid breathing rate, voice changes, and wheezing.
• ENDOSCOPY: Provides visualization of the body cavity and most internal organs. It is an excellent way to look for a variety of problems. Biopsies can also be collected during this procedure.
• BIOPSY: A piece of tissue is surgically removed and submitted to an avian pathologist who microscopically examines the sample for signs of disease. For example, a feather and skin biopsy is often recommended for birds with feather problems.
These tests are also very useful for monitoring your bird’s progress while under treatment.
Fees will always be discussed prior to any tests being performed.
THANK YOU FOR ENTRUSTING US WITH YOUR BIRD’S CARE.
CONVERTING YOUR BIRD TO A PELLETED DIET
Most birds do not recognize pellets as food when first presented with a generous bowl full. If you’re lucky, yours will dive right in. But if not, read on to guide your bird onto the path to better health.
IN GENERAL
• Start with a healthy bird in good weight. If you’re unsure whether this describes your bird, see your Avian Veterinarian for a check-up.
• If you don’t already, start observing your bird’s droppings. Change the newspaper in the bottom of the cage daily, so you can see them clearly. Learn what they normally look like during the course of the day.
• Choose an appropriate type and size pellet for your bird. You may want to try several different brands at first, to see if one kind is more attractive to your bird. If one seems favored over another, use that kind for your new diet.
• Be patient, persistent, and creative. All birds can learn to enjoy pellets. Some take more time and effort than others to convert.
THE PLAN
• Offer pellets by mixing them with your bird’s accustomed seed in a 50/50 ratio. This way he will at least have to look at and touch them to get the seed. Give him a generous bowl full at normal feeding times and observe his behavior. Don’t be discouraged if he tosses them out of the bowl, at least he’s touching them, and he may accidentally bit into one and discover it’s food!
• Depending on your bird’s response, offer this mixture for several weeks until you’re sure your bird is eating some pellets. Evidence of this will be a change in the color of the fecal part of the droppings from green to the color of the pellet, crumbled pellets in the bowl or bottom of the cage, or actually seeing him eat one.
• Once you’re sure he’s trying them, gradually decrease the proportion of seed and increase the pellets. The next stage is to offer pellets only, for 48 hours, carefully watching his droppings. If they begin to look sparse (smaller amount, decreased fecal matter) back up in the program to the pellet/seed mixture and go slower.
• There is no set timetable for this conversion. Your bird’s response to this new food will determine how slow or fast it goes. Observe carefully.
EXCEPTION
• Cockatiels, parakeets, and parrotlets should get 50% seed, fruit and veggies, with 50% pellets.
ADDITIONAL OFFERINGS
• Some birds enjoy pellets soaked in a favorite fruit juice or warm water. Remember, as with all soft foods, to remove the uneaten portion after several hours or it will become a cozy place for bacteria to grow!
• Sprinkle pellets over favorite fruits, veggies, or table foods. Eat some with your bird!
• Always provide plenty of fresh water in a clean bowl.
EVALUATING YOUR BIRD’S DROPPINGS
Most people regard what is at the bottom of their bird’s cage as something they would rather not look at. Much can be learned by taking a closer look at it, though! It can tell you an important story about your pets’ health. Learn to read it!
In General
• EBH recommends that you use newspaper to cover the cage bottom. It is non-toxic, inexpensive, and gives you a clear view of what your pet has dropped on it.
• The paper should be changed at least once a day. When this is done, examine it and you can learn many things. You can see what your bird has eaten or not eaten and how their fecal droppings have looked during the course of the day. You may even find the missing piece of the toy that they disassembled!
Normal Droppings
• Normal droppings consist of three (3) parts. The stool is coiled, or partially coiled, and varies in color from rich green to brown, depending on the pets’ diet. It will be green with those on a seed diet, while those on a formulated (pellet) diet will have stools of the colors which may be viewed as creamy. Certain fruits, such as beets and blueberries, can also affect the color of the stool.
• The urates are a by-product of the kidneys. They are usually bright white when dry. Urates are chalky in texture and will vary in size from tiny and compact (budgie) to large and spread out (macaw). It is normal to have some transient color changes during the day.
• The urine is the liquid portion and is normally clear. The volume of urine will change according to what the bird is eating. There will be more urine seen after consumption of fruits and vegetables, and less after consumption of pellets.
Once you’ve learned what your bird’s droppings normally look like, you can be on the lookout for signs of problems.
Abnormal Droppings
• Watery droppings – an increase in the amount of urine is often confused with diarrhea. The fecal matter will look the same, but there will be notably more fluid around the feces. A change in the color of the urine is also a warning of pending issues.
• Loose stool – This can also be true diarrhea. It can appear in one or two droppings due to stress. If you’re seeing it constantly throughout the day, it is a cause for concern. The tubular shaped feces will lose its shape and become mushy. A color change to bright green or black is an indicator of trouble.
• Yellow or green urates – This is a sign of pending problems. This part of the dropping should always be white when dry.
• Other things – Undigested seed or food in the droppings, pale or foamy droppings, a consistent change in the volume or number of droppings during the day, are all signs that you should be concerned about your pet’s health status.
“Try This, Not That.”
Alternatives to Bird’s Junk Food Cravings
Like people, many of our pet birds have desires to eat food that is not good for them. We can curb that behavior by offering alternatives that are better for them:
IF YOUR BIRD WANTS: TRY THIS INSTEAD:
• Peanuts * Tree nuts such as almonds or walnuts
(unsalted)
• Asian food (salt, MSG, fat) * Sprouts, vegetables, no soy sauce
• Cookies, cake (fat, sugar, chemicals) * Birdie bread or muffins
• French fries (fat, grease) * Chunks of baked or boiled potatoes/
Sweet potatoes
• Potato chips (salt, fat, preservatives) * Low-salt, baked vegetable chips
• Candy (sugar, food coloring) * Fresh fruit or vegetables
• Dried fruit (sulfites, concentrated sugar) * Sulfite-free dried fruit or fresh fruit or
Fresh vegetables
• Canned vegetables (sodium) * Fresh or frozen vegetables
• Salted nuts (salt) * Dry-roasted nuts, unsalted
• Processed meat (salt, fat, preservatives) * Small piece of cooked, lean meat
• Pizza, pasta especially take-out * Ready-to-cook avian pasta mixtures
(cheese, salt, processed meat, spices, fat)
• Eggs (cholesterol) * Cooked egg whites, egg substitutes
• Enriched or sugar-added cereal * Plain, whole-grain cereal like Shredded
Wheat
Portion size should be controlled to ensure a healthy diet. A snack should be a small piece about the size of a bird’s eye or not much larger than your pinkie fingernail for small birds, or thumb nail for a larger bird.
Forbidden Foods – What NOT to Feed Your Bird
• Chocolate
• Avocado
• Rhubarb
• Salty Snacks
• Mushrooms
• Onions and garlic: small amounts of powdered varieties for flavoring are generally considered OK, but onions and garlic cause anemia in dogs and cats, so don’t take a chance with your bird.
• Alcohol, soft drinks, caffeine (including coffee grounds), energy drinks.
• Milk
• Raw/undercooked meat or poultry
• Ornamental gourds
• Foods containing mayonnaise
• Candy, pastry, sugary drinks and other sources of sugar
• Processed meat: hot dogs, salami, bologna and other lunch meats
• Dog or cat food; food intended for other pets
• Grit or gravel for parrot species: most veterinarians do not recommend it; overeating can result in crop impactions
• Uncooked beans (kidney, navy, black etc.): beans contain a substance called hemagglutinin, which is toxic to birds. Thoroughly cook beans before sharing them with your bird.
• Peanuts
It is strongly discouraged to feed your bird any meat, eggs, or cheese due to high protein and cholesterol. These items are very hard on a bird’s kidney and liver. If your pet must have these items, please use them sparingly. (i.e. no more than once or twice a month)
VITAMIN A CONTENT OF SELECTED FOODS
(The following table lists the vitamin A content of one cup portion of selected foods)
Vitamin A to one cup
Beet Greens 44,000
Dandelion Greens 40,000
Kale 40,000
Broccoli Leaves 30,000
Chard 30,000
Mustard Greens 22,000
Spinach 22,000
Turnip Greens 22,000
Parsley 16,000
Endive 15,000
Collard Greens 12,600
Carrot 9,000
Apricot 6,500
Broccoli Florets 5,000
Yam 5,000
Pumpkin 5,000
Cabbage (inner and outer leaves) 5,000
Squash (Hubbard) 4,000
Sweet Potato 3,600
Pease (fresh) 3,000
Leaf Lettuce (Dark Green) 2,000
Squash (Summer) 2,000
Broccoli Stem 1,720
Watercress 1,562
Tomatoes 1,500
Peaches 1,000
NON-TOXIC (SAFE) PLANTS
FOLIAGE PLANTS TREE BRANCHES
Acacia
Aloe
African Violet
Baby’s Tear
Bamboo
Begonia
Bougainvillea
Chickweed
Christmas Cactus
Cissus (Kangaroo Vine)
Coffee
Coleus
Corn Plant
Crabapple
Dandelion
Donkey Tail
Fern (Asparagus, Bird’s Nest, Boston, Maidenhair)
Figs (Creeping, Rubber, Fiddle Leaf, Laurel Leaf, Weeping)
Gardenia
Grape Ivy
Hen & Chicks
Jade Plant
Impatiens
Kalanchoe
Magnolia
Marigolds
Money Plant
Mother-In-Law
Nasturtium
Natal Plum
Norfolk Island Pine
Palms (Areca, Date, Fan, Lady, Parlour, Howea, Kentia, Phoenix,
Sago)
Peperomia
Petunia
Pittosporum
Prayer Plant
Purple Passion (Velvet Needle)
Rose
Rubber Plant
*Schefflera (Umbrella)
Sensitive Plant
Spider Plant
Swedish Ivy
Thistle
Wandering Jew
White Clover
Zebra Plant
Zinnia
*Can cause sinus and breathing problems
Almond
Any Citrus
Apple
Apricot
Ash
Crape Myrtle
Dogwood
Elm
Grape Vines
Guava
Hibiscus
Magnolia
Nectarine
Nut Trees (Except Chestnut & Oak)
Papaya
Peach
Pear
Plum
Prune
Thurlow
Vine
Maple
Willows
These branches need to be disinfected, rinsed very well, and completely dry before being introduced to a bird’s cage or play gym.
COMMON HOUSEHOLD POISONS
Air Fresheners/Aerosols
Aerosol Disinfectant
Alcoholic Beverages
Ammonia
Any Syrup and Paste
Arsenic
Asbestos
Auto Products
Bathroom Cleaners
Bleach
Boric Acid
Campho-Phenique
Carbon Monoxide
Carpet Cleaners and Deodorizers
Charcoal Fluid
Chlorine
Cigarette Smoke
Clinitest Tablets
Copper/Brass Polish
Common Wart Removers
Cleaners (ALL)
Deodorants
Diazinon
Disinfectant (Aerosols and Liquids)
Drain Cleaners
Epoxy Glue
Felt Tip Markers
Flea Products
Floor Polish and Wax
Formaldehyde
Furniture Polish
Garden Sprays
Glade Plug-Ins
Gun Cleaners
Hair Dye
Herbicides
Iodine
Kerosene
Lighter Fluid
Lye
Matches
Model Cement
Moth Balls
Muriatic Acid
Mushrooms
Nail Polish Remover
Oven Cleaners
Overheated Non-stick Cookware
Paint
Paint Thinners
Perfumes
Pesticides
Pine-Sol
Rx Drugs (including over the counter)
Rubbing Alcohol
Scented Candles
Shellac
Shoe Polish
Silver Polish
Snail Bait
Spot Removers
Spray Starch
Strychnine
Sulfuric Acid
Super Glue
Suntan Lotion and Oils
Turpentine
Wax
Weed Killers
Window Cleaners
Wood Preservatives
Common Sources of Lead Exposure for Birds
Weights – curtains, fishing lures, automobile wheel balance weights.
Toys – free standing plastic items with internal weights; bells with lead clappers; children’s jewelry and toys from vending machines
Paints – both lead based (including varnishes and lacquers), and lead free bases with lead drying agents.
Stained Glass – seams and frames.
Lead Glazed Ceramics, China, Lead Crystal, Pewter – lead based type glasses, seen especially from third world country origins.
Solder – imported foods in cans that are sealed with solder
Batteries
Bullets – air rifles and shotgun shells, all bullets
Hardware Cloth – dip coating has zinc and lead in varying concentrations.
Champagne and Wine bottle foil – some types
Light Bulb bases
Linoleum
Lead Gasoline fumes
Mini Blinds – some non-glossy, vinyl mini-blinds from foreign countries contain lead.
Costume Jewelry
Plaster
Contaminated Bone Meal or Dolomite Products
Seeds for Planting – coated with lead arsenate
Some Lubricants – lead naphthalene
Mirror Backings
TOXIC (Poisonous) PLANTS TO BE AWARE OF:
Acorn
Amanita
Andromeda
Arum
Autumn Crocus or Meadow Saffron
Australian Flame Tree
Avocado
Azalea
Baneberry
Beans (Castor, Horse, Fava, Broad Glory,
Scarlet, Runner, Precatory, Navy)
Bird of Paradise
Bishop’s Weed
Black Laurel
Black Locust
Bleeding Heart or Dutchman’s Breeches
Bloodroot
Blue bonnet
Blue Green Algae
Boxwood
Bracken Fern
Buckthorn
Bulb Flowers (Amaryllis, Iris, Daffodil, Narcissus, Hyacinth)
Burdock
Buttercup
Cacao
Camel Bush
Caladium
Cana Lily
Cardinal Flower
Chalice (Trumpet Vine)
Cherry Tree
Chinaberry Tree
Christmas Candle
Clematic (Virginia Bower)
Cocklebur
Coffee (Senna)
Coffee Bean (Rattle Bush, Boc, Coffee Weed)
Coral Plant
Coriander (Cilantro)
Corncockle
Coyotillo
Cowslip
Cutleaf Philodendron
Daphne
Death Camus
Delphinium
Devil Ivy
Deiffenbachia
Elderberry
Elephant Ear (Taro)
Ergot
Eucalyptus (Dried, dyed, or treated, in floral arrangements)
Euonymus (Spindlestree)
False Hellebore
Felt Plant (Maternity, Air, Panda)
Fire Thorn
Four O’clock
Foxglove
Glottidium (Bladderpod)
Golden Chain
Grass (Johnson, Sorghum, Sudan, Broom Corn)
Ground Cherry
Heathers (Kalma, Leucotho, Pieries,
Rhododenren, Mountain Laurel)
Heliotrope
Hemlock (Poison, Water)
Henbane
Holly
Honeysuckle
Horse Chestnut
Horse Tail
Hydrangea
Ivy (English and other)
Jack-in-the-Pulpit
Jasmine
Jimson Weed
Kentucky Coffee Tree
TOXIC (Poisonous) PLANTS TO BE AWARE OF:
Continued:
Lady Slipper Pigweed
Lantana Poinciana
Larkspur Poison Ivy
Lily of the Valley Poison Oak (Western, Eastern)
Locoweed (Milk Vetch) Poke Weed
Locusts (Black & Honey) Poppy
Lords & Ladies Potato Shoots (Tubers & berries)
Lupine Privet
Malaga Rain Tree
Marijuana Ranculus (Buttercup)
Mayapple Rape
Mexican Poppy Rattlebox
Milk Weed (Cotton Bush) Red Maple
Mistletoe Sand Box Tree
Mock Orange Skunk Cabbage
Monkshood Sorrel (Dock)
Morning Glory Snow Drop
Mushrooms Spurge (Pencil Tree, Candelabra, Snow On
Naked Lady The Mountain, Crown of Thorns)
Narcissus Sweet Pea
Nettles Tansy Root
Nightshade (Deadly, Black, Garden, Woody, Tobacco
Bittersweet Eggplant, Jerusalem, Cherry) Vetch (Hairy Common)
Nutmeg Virginia Creeper
Oak Wattle
Oleander White Cedar
Peony Wisteria
Periwinkle Yew
Peyote Yellow Jasmine
Philodendrons (Split Leaf, Swiss Cheese)
This is not a complete listing of all toxic plants. If you are unsure about a plant that is not on this list,
please contact a veterinarian for information, or do not use the plant at all.
Courtesy of
Exotic Bird Hospital, Inc.
Most parrots split their daily routine into several natural maintenance behaviors that include foraging, social interaction, and feather care. These things are essential for the overall well-being of parrots in our homes and owners should strive for a balance of these natural behaviors.
For many captive birds, foraging is often not addressed. Birds are offered free choice food in bowls and that leaves their extra time to socialize and groom. Given the time and right conditions, it can cause birds to excessively groom and lead to feather destructive behaviors. The same concept applies to excessive socialization such as screaming. Teaching your bird to forage to more closely mimic their natural behaviors in the wild can lead to a well-trained and adjusted pet that will be less stressed and have better overall physical and mental health.
Encouraging Foraging: Start easy so your parrot does not get frustrated and stop trying. You may need to encourage your parrot by demonstrating to them how to start. Do this instead of large amount of bowl feeding by dividing their daily ration into any of these foraging activities below.
• Foraging Tree: homemade or purchased. Ideally, the stand should have 5-7 foraging stations per bird and the bird should have to walk or climb to each of the different stations. Place a small amount of food at each station (divide up daily ration). As your bird learns to go to all the stations to get its food, you can make it more challenging by adding in the additional techniques below.
• Foraging Perch: a piece of non-treated wood (pine or fir) drilled with various sized holes to store nuts or seeds. The reward should be visible, but only accessible by chewing some of the wood down. You may need to teach your bird how to access the food first by drilling a starter hole that is easier to gain the reward.
• Wrap/Cover: you may wrap or cover a food dish or a nut/treat with tissue paper, paper, paper bags, paper cups, or cardboard. If you are first starting, punch a large starter hole so the bird can see the food and only has to tear a little to get to it. Gradually, you can reduce the size of the opening as they become more comfortable and experienced. You may also place a wrapped nut, seed or treat in pieces of paper, corn husk or other material and twist the ends like a piece of candy. You can also place items in a paper bag and tie the bag closed with a leather strip and hang it from a perch or cage. As your bird becomes more experienced, challenge it by not having all wrappers contain a treat!
• Bury: mix pellets or seed with inedible items such as wooden buttons/balls/beads or shredded paper so your bird has to dig through it to find its food.
• Tube: stuff food or treats in a tube such as paper towel tubes. Seal the ends by folding or using non-toxic masking tape and poke holes in the side so the bird can see the food item and can work to get it. The more experienced bird can utilize commercial tube toys such as those made from PVC tubes.
• Puzzle toys: there are a variety of commercial puzzle toys that require varying degrees of experience and often require the bird learn how to unscrew or manipulate components to get their food.
• Trick training: by asking your bird to perform a behavior to get a reward, you are providing a modified form of foraging. In addition, this can count for social interaction and can lead to loads of fun between you and your bird.
• Grass mat: artificial grass mat can be used for ground foragers such as cockatiels and cockatoos. Sprinkle seed in the grass mats so they have to pick the seed out between the blades. Monitor/Supervise for chewing.
• BE CREATIVE! There are a variety of ways to encourage foraging. Always make sure you utilize safe components that are material and size appropriate for your bird.
Foods high in Calcium
Many of us love putting together a “salad” for our birds. To help you choose good greens, here is a list of some of the greens that are highest in calcium.
Broccoli: A great dark green veggie rich in calcium. Can be given raw, juiced, or lightly steamed.
Cabbage: Cabbage is an inexpensive vegetable very rich in calcium and other alkaline minerals. Small amounts of cabbage can be added to juices, served raw in a birdie slaw salad or even slightly cooked.
Celery: Celery is often thought of as a not so important food, but it is very pleasing to the palate, easy to eat raw, and rich in calcium and sodium.
Chinese cabbage (Bok Choy): There are many varieties of Chinese cabbage. Most people are more familiar with bok choy, for example. They are all extremely rich in calcium, and enjoyable to eat raw. Bok choy is especially good chopped in salads.
Collard greens: Collard greens are very rich in minerals, and can be added to juices, lightly steamed, or served raw in a birdie salad.
Kale: Kale is extremely rich in calcium. It can be steamed or served raw in a birdie salad.
Arugula: Arugula, also called roquette, is fairly strong but is a nice addition to fresh salads and is very rich in calcium.
Turnip greens: Turnip greens are extremely rich in calcium. They can be juiced, or added to salads, or steamed.
Mustard greens: This is one of the most alkaline greens. It can be added to salads and juices, or lightly steamed.
Spinach: Spinach is rich in calcium and very enjoyable to eat raw, especially when the leaves are young, juiced, or lightly steamed. However, spinach also contains oxalic acid which interferes with calcium being absorbed. For that reason, it is not recommended for everyday feeding.
http://www.naturechest.com/calcium-foods.html
| Good Calcium Sources | ||||||
| Food | CA (mg) | P (mg) | Ca:P Ratio | |||
| Beet Greens Broccoli Leaves Broccoli Stem Cabbage (outside green leaves) Celery Chard Chinese Cabbage Collards (cooked) Dandelion Greens Endive Kale Kohlrabi Lettuce Dark Green Leaf Mustard Greens Orange or Tangerine Parsley Spinach Turnip Greens Watercress Watermelon Yellow Wax Beans | 188 349 111 429 44 300 400 14 168 104 390 390 25 582 48 46 156 694 53 33 63 | 80 89 47 72 32 100 72 150 70 39 134 120 14 168 18 30 92 98 15 9 46 | 1:0.4 1:0.26 1:0.4 1:0.17 1:0.7 1:0.33 1:0.2 1:0.4 1:0.4 1:0.4 1:0.4 1:0.3 1:0.56 1:0.29 1:0.4 1:0.65 1:0.6 1:0.14 1:0.3 1:0.27 1:0.7 | |||
| Moderate Calcium Sources | ||||||
| Food | CA (mg) | P (mg) | Ca:P Ratio | |||
| Apples Blackberries Blueberries Cabbage (inside white leaves) Cantaloupe Carrots Green Beans Guavas Okra Pears Raspberries Rutabaga Squash Strawberries Turnips Yams | 10 43 33 46 64 90 55 15 144 15 82 99 36 68 112 44 | 10 43 26 34 60 82 55 15 124 18 76 75 30 56 94 50 | 1:1 1:1 1:0.8 1:0.74 1:0.9 1:0.9 1:1 1:1 1:0.86 1:1.2 1:0.93 1:0.75 1:0.8 1:0.8 1:0.84 1:1 | |||
| Poor Calcium Sources | |||||||
| Food | CA (mg) | P (mg) | Ca:P Ratio | ||||
| Apricots Asparagus Bananas Beets Broccoli Flowers Brussels Sprouts Cauliflower Cherries (pitted) Corn Cucumber Eggplant Grapes Lettuce (head, iceberg) Mushrooms Parsnips Peaches Peas Pineapple Plums Pumpkin Radish Sweet Potato Tomato | 15 28 7 56 85 36 28 19 16 10 22 19 17 19 152 10 56 12 20 46 21 19 11 | 21 70 22 84 140 161 46 35 206 21 62 35 40 131 152 19 254 12 27 100 29 45 29 | 1:1.4 1:2.5 1:3.1 1:1.5 1:1.65 1:4.48 1:1.6 1:1.58 1:12.9 1:2.1 1:2.8 1:1.8 1:2.4 1:6.9 1:1.3 1:1.9 1:4.5 1:2.9 1:1.4 1:2.2 1:1.4 1:2.4 1:2.6 | ||||
STOP BITING AND SCREAMING!
Companion parrots should not be excessive biters or screamers. Parrots are naturally gregarious and social, so some vocalization is to be expected. Parrots like to communicate with the flock (you) in the mornings and evenings, and when they greet you. In the wild, a parrot is constantly calling to the flock when it is not resting. It is natural for a parrot to be noisy, however, it should not scream incessantly.
Tame parrots should not bite. Any parrot is capable of biting, especially if provoked, or if it is afraid. Correcting a biting or screaming problem is a step by step approach. First, the owner needs to establish a position of flock leader. Establishing controls with our companion parrots is always a first step to resolving behavior problems. Owners must have sufficient “rank” in the parrots’ eyes before the bird will respond to training. Teach step-ups to the point where the step-up command is automatic. The next approach is to collect information by keeping a journal, recording the time of day the screaming is occurring, what is happening at the time, owners’ response, and so forth. If the owner tracks the behavior and progress, the owner should notice gradual improvement over time.
Some parrots experience an excitement overload phase, which is not the time to handle your bird. Frequently it will displace this excitement into a bite. Hormone surges can make a parrot aggressive, especially if it is mating season. Learn to read your parrot’s body language and when your bird is not receptive to being handled. Pinning eyes, flared tail, posturing, tightening of the feathers, excited or dramatic vocalizations are all signs that your parrot should not be handled. Wait until the signs subside before any attempts to handle are made.
Parrots are prey animals, and safety is important. Most parrots bite out of fear. Excessive environmental stimuli can lead to nervousness and aggression. Make sure your parrot’s visual area is clear of “perceived” threats.
Parrots reflect our energy and moods. The best time to handle your parrot is when you can lower your energy and you feel calm. A parrot knows if you are afraid of it. Flock creatures behave in a manner similar to other members of the flock. The emotional tempo of human flock members will have a direct impact on avian behavior.
Some parrots will scream out of boredom. In the wild, a parrot is very active; flying, foraging for food, interacting with the flock. What is the day in the life of your bird like? Is there plenty to do? Make sure your bird gets plenty of exercise. A large horizontal built cage is best, but if your space is limited, provide ladders, swings, and toys to help your bird keep busy. Take your bird out every day and give it “flapping” exercises.
Diet influences behavior. It has been published that birds on mostly seed diets are louder and more aggressive. Dietary change may not solve the problem, but it is part of the solution. Diet is what a parrot actually eats, not what it is fed.
STOP BITING AND SCREAMING!
(continued)
Our companion parrots need at least ten hours of undisturbed sleep every night. This means no audio or visual stimulation. Parrots get cranky when they do not get enough sleep. This can be an underlying cause to biting or screaming. If the parrot is housed in the center of activity, try transferring the bird to a sleep cage at night. This is a smaller, spartanly-equipped cage set up in a room that is unoccupied at night.
A parrot does not understand punishment. Thumping the beak to make a parrot stop biting is a sigh of aggression and will only make it worse. So, spraying a parrot with water, or shouting at it to shut up when screaming. Al you are doing with these “punishments” is reinforcing the bad behavior. Parrots love drama and attention. They usually scream to get attention. By giving them any attention, like spraying them or yelling back, you have given them a drama reward, what they wanted, and you have taught your parrot to scream even more. Once this bad habit is entrenched it is very hard to break.
When a parrot is screaming and you know nothing is wrong (it has food, water, not caught in a toy, etc.) it is best to just ignore the bird. Or, you can try responding by using a soft contact whistle and ignoring (thus replacing) the loud raucous calling. When praised for positive behaviors, the bird will learn to concentrate its’ attention on them while rejecting undesirable activities that gain little or no response from their owners. Praise is one of the most important tools for altering behavior. Try praising your bird when it is sitting quietly.
Teach your bird that fingers are not toys. Do not play with your bird with your hands in that way, especially young parrots that are exploring and learning with their beaks. Present a toy or something to chew on instead of your finger.
Height is a position of dominance. A parrot that is allowed to hang out on top of a cage or play-stand, or on your shoulder, is going to exhibit more aggressive behavior. You have no eye contact with the parrot when it is on your shoulder. The ideal level for a parrot is your chest level or lower. Too low (on the floor) and a parrot will feel vulnerable and insecure. A parrot that is allowed to come and go out of its’ cage, or fly or roam around the house, is not going to make good decisions for itself and be well behaved. Parrots defend the territory they occupy. Parrots need structure and parrots feel most comfortable with people that feel comfortable around them in a defined territory.
If you keep the wings on your bird trimmed, it will be a more manageable pet. Not only is it safer for your bird, but the bird is not making decisions for its’ life. A free-flighted bird tends to be more independent and have more behavior problems in our homes.
In conclusion, our feathered companions are fully armed with all the same instincts that their wild counterparts possess. They are in unnatural environments, which encourage unnatural behaviors. Behavior changes take time, especially if the behavior has been habituated over a long time. All members of the household need to participate in a behavioral modification program. If the owners cannot define clear and appropriate boundaries for the parrot, how can the bird be expected to know what is acceptable.
Usually, a behavior problem does not lie with the bird, but with the owner. The best way to change our birds’ behavior is to change our behavior and expectations of the bird, the “wild” creature we share our lives with.
Bad wood
ALDER – red alder -see Alder Buckthorn paragraph
ANDROMEDA -Pieris, Lily of the Valley shrub
APRICOT
ARROWHEAD VINE
AUSTRALIAN FLAME TREE
AUSTRALIAN UMBRELLA TREE
AVACADO
AZALEA – Related to Rhododendron
BANEBERRY – Actaea
BEANS -castor, horse, fava, broad, glory, scarlet runner
BLACK LOCUST – Robinia
BOX ELDER
BOXWOOD – Buxus
BUCKTHORN – Cascara / Alder Buckthorn – see chapter
BRACKEN FERN
BURDOCK
CACAO
CAMEL BUSH – Trichodesma
CANARY BIRD BUSH – Crotalaria
CANNABIS
CASTOR BEAN
CEDAR – Thuja, Chamaecyparis, Cupressus
CHALICE – trumpet vine
CHERRY see comments below
CHINA BERRY TREE – Melia / Texas umbrella tree
CHINESE MAGNOLIA – uncertain for safety
CHINESE POPCORN / TALLOW
CHINESE SNAKE TREE – Laquer plant
COMMON SAGE
CORIANDER – Cilantro
DATURA
DAPHNE – it’s the berries
DATURA STRAMONIUM – Brugmansia – angel’s trumpet
DIEFFENBACHIA
ELDERBERRY
EUONYMUS – Includes burning bush and more
EUPHORBIA
FELT PLANT – Kalancho baharensis
FLAME TREE
FIRETHORN – Pyracantha
FLAME TREE – Brachychiton / Sterculia
FOXGLOVE – Digitalis (pharmaceutical source)
GOLDEN CHAIN TREE – Laburnum
GROUND CHERRY
CROWN OF THORNS
HEATHS
HEMLOCK – Tsuga
HOLLY – Ilex
HONEY LOCUST – Gleditsia
HORSE CHESTNUT – Aesculus
HUCKLEBERRY – leaves bad: evergreen & deciduous
HYDRANGEA
JASMINE
JUNIPER – Juniperus
KALMIA: also called Mountain Laurel
KENTUCKY COFFEE TREE
LANTANA – red sage
LAUREL – Prunus
LEUCOTHOE
LUPINE
MANGO – (fruit okay: not wood or leaves)
MEXICAN BREADFRUIT
MOCK ORANGE – Philadelphus
MONSTERA – big hunker of a house plant
MOUNTAIN LAUREL – Kalmia latifolia
MYRTLE – broadleaf evergreen, not crape myrtle
NECTARINE
NUTMEG
OAK – Quercus – all parts / tannins
MISTLETOE
OLEANDER
PEACH
PEAR – some sources lean toward safe
PENCILTREE
PITCH PINE
PLUM
PRARIE OAK – safety uncertain
PRIVET
RAIN TREE
RED MAPLE – see Maple paragraph
RED SAGE – Lantana
REDWOOD – Sequiadendron, Metasequoia, Sequoia
RHODODENDRON
RHUBARB
SAND BOX TREE – sap was used to poison fish
SKIMMIA – entire plant: stem, berry, leaves
SOLANUM – Jerusalem cherry or pepino
SOPHORA – includes Japanese pagoda tree
SUMAC – not all sumacs are bad: see paragraphs
TOBACCO
TANSY
TOMATO
UMBRELLA TREE
WALNUT
WEEPING FIG – Ficus benjamina > Ficus elastica safe
WHITE CEDAR – China
WITCH HAZEL – Hamamelis
WISTERIA
YEW – Taxus
Safe wood
ACACIA – Silk Tree would be in this group
APPLE –
(Insecticide residue likely cause
for periodic issues)
AILANTHUS – Tree of Heaven
ALDER – white alder –
(See paragraph about
Alder / Buckthorn)
ALMOND
ARALIA – Fatsia japonica
ASH – Fraxinus
ASPEN – Populus
BAMBOO
BARBERRY- Berberis
BIRCH – see paragraph
BEECH – Fagus
BOIS D’ARC – horse apple tree
BOTTLE BRUSH
BUTTERFLY BUSH
CAMELLIA
CITRUS –
(lime, kumquat, grapefruit, orange, lemon)
CORK –
(not wood from cork oak, but cork)
CORN PLANTS
COTTONWOOD – Populus
CRABAPPLE – Malus
CRAPE MYRTLE –
(not the same as myrtle)
DATE
DOGWOOD – Cornus
DOUGLAS FIR – Pseudotsuga
DRACAENA
ELM – Ulmus
ESCALLONIA
EUCALYPTUS
FIG
FIR – genus Abies
GINKGO
GRAPE VINES
GRAPE PALM
GUAVA
HACKBERRY
HAWTHORN – Crataegus
HIBISCUS
HICKORY
IRONWOOD – apparently toxic leaves
JADE PLANT
KALANCHOE
LARCH – Larix
LILAC – Syringa
MADRONA / MADRONE – Arbutus
MAGNOLIA
MAPLE – Acer – see Maple Paragraph
MANZANITA – Arctostaphylos
MESQUITE – remove sharp parts
MIMOSA
MOUNTAIN ASH – Sorbus
MULBERRY – Morus – see Mulberry note
NANDINA -common name is heavenly bamboo
NORFOLK ISLAND PINE – Araucaria
NUT TREES – exclude chestnut
ORANGE – several sources lean toward safe
OREGON GRAPE – Mahonia
PALM
PAPAYA
PEAR
PECAN
PINE – Pinus: see Pine paragraph below
PHOTINIA see Photinia paragraph below
POPLAR – Populus
PUSSY WILLOW – Salix
RAPHIOLEPSIS – Indian Hawthorn
RIBBONWOOD
ROSE – Rosa
RUBBER PLANT – Ficus elastica – Weeping Fig in bad column
RUSSIAN OLIVE
SASSAFRAS
SILK TREE
SPIRAEA
SPRUCE – Picea
STAGHORN SUMAC – see Sumac paragraph
STRAWBERRY TREE – Arbutus like Madrone
SWEET GUM
SYCAMORE
THURLOW
TREE FERN
VIBURNUM
VINE MAPLE – Acer
WEEPING WILLOW – Salix – see Willow paragraph
WIEGELA
YUCCA
We get a lot of email from folks who don’t see a wood named on these lists, but ask if another they have in mind is safe for their bird. They need to understand that this is the sum of what we are aware of. This was not written to selectively withhold useful wood names. What you read here is what we know of. But we are always open to new safe wood names if you have a source to provide with the suggestion.
